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Today,
the trip north was about to begin. Before we could take to the air we needed
a taxi to get back to the airport. When mentioning that we had a bit of
luggage the first statement was that the driver would not lift any luggage
whatsoever. Okay, we could live with that, but we never turn down help
anymore after 3 shoulder surgeries in three years and one more injury last
fall.
All went well and soon we were in the air
heading north along the lonely road and railroad tracks. The country more
green along the coast gradually became more barren. On the map lakes were
portrayed but looking outside the cockpit we saw only large flat depressions
with sandy or more often, white salt coverings. It was impossible to see any
animals from the air, even at very low altitudes. Most likely, they were
resting in the shade of the trees and shrubs. Hot does not begin to describe the
word, hot in this area. |
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Joan
prefights VH-NLB before take off in Esperance |
The
white sands of Esperance has changed to a coarse sandy texture |
Flying
north it becomes increasingly more difficult to do much agriculture. |
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Coming closer to our next stop, Kalgoorlie,
we started seeing huge mining pits of every size, shape and color. We were
entering mining country. The town of Kalgoorlie started in 1893 when two
men, Daniel Shea and Tom Flanagan stumbled across a large deposit of gold –
100 ounces of alluvial nuggets. Today the town has one of the largest open
pit gold and nickel mines in Australia. It lies just next to the town where
about 30,000 people live. In the heydays, more than 80,000 people populated
the City. Looking from above, one can easily see that the whole City is
quite dwarfed in comparison to the large mine which is over three kilometers
long. |
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Rivers
and lakes on the map actually turn into salty flats. |
Nature
has it's own way of beauty. |
The
airstrip of Norseman is close to the shore of a salt lake. |
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After sorting out which hotel was the one we
asked her to drive us too, the taxi driver finally took us to the one where
we indeed had the reservation. Some people are just hard headed like we are
at times. At least she was honest; one of the drivers in Esperance took us
“For a ride” which cost us far more than it should have been. After settling
in for all of five minutes, we had a nice walk to the main street area. The
afternoon sun displayed the historic buildings in all their majesty. At the
Dome Café (an upscale Starbucks) we invited ourselves to enjoy an early
dinner and do some people watching along the main street of Hannan in
downtown Kalgoorlie. |
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The
railway from Kalgoorlie in the direction of Sydney. |
The
beautiful Airport of Meekatharra beckons customers. |
The
airport manager, Mel, has many jobs and even works on Sundays. |
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The next morning we left early for Newman. To
our surprise the sky was overcast for over an hour giving us shade from the
blistering sun. This is one of the major mining routes in this neck of the
woods. While some are collecting gold, others find plutonium and in the north, iron ore is more
predominent. The mother lode is often piled up nearby
in pyramid fashion and resembles the piece of ground that is missing in the
large hole that is being mined. |
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Mel
even works as photographer for passing tourists. |
The
Small Sandy Desert even has it's residents. One can easily spot the junk
yard shown on the right. |
It
seems improbable
to discover this mess in such a remote area. |
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Meekathara was along our route and we briefly
planned to stop, refuel and stretch our legs. It lies in a desolate and
remote territory. Upon landing, the airport manager, Mel, also the fueling
man, photographer, groundskeeper of colorful flower beds and spotless
facilities apologized for having his gardens fenced to prevent the kangaroos
from eating them at night. Despite the fact that it was Sunday, he was just
as bright and cheery as his airport and grounds. We thoroughly enjoyed our
visit.
On the last leg to Newman, we started to play
a little game of “Keeping the plane’s shadow over the road” and chase a
lonely car below to break up the monotony and take our minds off the
sweltering heat. Ueli found it amusing that he was sitting roadside on the
right giving directions while Joan piloted the plane to accomplish this
game. She became bored with this after not too long, as the road zigzaged
every few minutes. We spotted an Aboriginal settlement and circled to take
pictures from a high altitude so we would not be a nuisance. Then we came to
one of our checkpoints, a roadhouse which was the only thing with human
indication, besides the settlement. |
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An
old
truck on display in Newman. Check Joan's size (left bottom corner). They
take 22 tons each load. |
The
eastern foothills of the Hamersley Range, an area known to be very rich in
minerals. |
One
of the many Roadhouses along the immensely lonely roads of the outback. |
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The runway of Newman soon came into sight and
we set down nicely to complete this part of the journey. After checking cab
fares, we decided that a rental car had to be less expensive than a taxi to
and from the motel. We were again quoted an exorbitant price, but managed to
knock $40.00 off the quote, thanks to AOPA. The husband of the woman, who
managed Hertz, turned out to be an interesting fellow. Ueli talked with him
about his mining job as an explosive expert and they went into great detail
as Joan did the business transaction.
At the small hotel restaurant, we were
eating dinner and were
approached by a young man asking whether we were the pilots of the Cessna
parked at the airport. Apparently we had parked at their favorite spot
(unmarked), although only one other plane was on the ramp. He asked if we or
they could move the plane. We said no – we would be gone in the morning.
Newman is so small that nothing goes unnoticed.
The larger of the two open iron ore mines
was just north of town and on the way out the next morning, we flew around
it and shot many pictures – also of the smaller one which was southeast of
Newman. They were the only interesting things about this place. One push of
the throttle and we were out of there – for good. |
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The
Great Sandy Desert reaches Alice Springs in the middle of the
continent. |
The
desert meets the Indian Ocean. Millions of years ago a meteor struck at this
location and caused a severe depletion of life. |
It
was exciting to see this area from the air and imagine how 251 million years
ago a comet (Bedout) hit the continent just offshore causing about 90% of
the marine life and 70% of the land life to become extinct.
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It was a straight shot to Broome over more
desolate country and desert. The charts indicated abandoned prospecting
sights, and mountains. The most intriguing thing to us however, was the fact
that the mountains marked on our charts were only a few hundred meters above
the surrounding terrain. The charts depicted the altitude with plus – minus
signs. We had to smile. |
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Broome
in sight. Time to slow down and relax for a while. |
Making
sure the plane is well secured!
In Broome, visitors are very welcome and the people are
extremely friendly and helpful to road and air warriors. |
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Finally, after taking many pictures of
whatever we saw, the Indian Ocean appeared on the horizon. At last we could
fly the coastline into Broome. Both of us perked up – it had been a long
haul over barren, yet beautiful country from the southern shores of
Australia.
Reaching Broome we were simply tired and
needed more than one or two days in one place. We had slept in four
different towns in five nights. It was time to chill out – in our dreams, as
the temperature was over 100 degrees F. No matter, we were going to stay
put, enjoy the beaches and do some casual sightseeing. |
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Don't hesitate to give us your impressions.
You can contact us
via wefly4fun2@aol.com |
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This page was last modified on
23. April 2005 |